Friday, August 17, 2007

What's with all the variations of Eggs Benedict?

At Eggs Benedict New York you can find a list of recipes that includes "Shortcut Eggs Benedict - With cream of chicken soup and milk substituting for eggs in hollandaise."

Do I understand this right? To me it sounds like cream of chicken soup on an english muffin. Just call it what it is, instead of trying to pass it off as something actually worth eating. Fortunately, the link to the recipe is now a dead one, and a Google search for it assures us that the world will never again be subjected to its horrors. Other B-movie-screamfest 'variations' include substituting everything from guaccamole mayonnaise to salsa for the Hollandaise, and another truly terrifying recipe uses "cholesterol-free egg product and evaporated milk to make the hollandaise to cover frozen waffles on which sit poached eggs." The title of this recipe is, in fact, "Eggs Benedict Without Real Eggs." Then what, pray tell, are the real poached eggs DOING on those waffles? (WAFFLES?!)

So what, some may ask, is REAL Eggs Benedict? To those who have never reveled in its creamy glory, Wikipedia has a great entry. While I sometimes omit the Canadian bacon (I've never been a huge fan of smoked pork products), I still adhere to the classic religiously. For those who have been told (or have simply feared) that real Hollandaise is too difficult to make, rest assured - it does take a little time and care, but it is nearly foolproof if you follow the instructions, and your efforts are well-rewarded in the end. Real Hollandaise sauce is so good that I always feel the need to make hash browns as well, simply as a vehicle for more sauce. If for some reason you just can't get the hang of it, Epicurious has a fairly good Blender Hollandaise recipe you should try.

For those with a gluten intolerance or wheat allergy, you can substitute homemade hash browns (recipe below) for the English muffins, unless you have a truly good gluten-free muffin on hand. The Hollandaise sauce is gluten-free by nature. For those who can eat regular English muffins, the hash browns make a nice accompaniment and serve to mop up extra sauce.



Sublime Hollandaise Sauce

(for about four portions of Eggs Benedict)

1 tablespoon rice vinegar
3 tablespoons cold water
1/4 teaspoon salt
3 large egg yolks
2 sticks (1 cup) unsalted butter, cut into tablespoon pieces and softened
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1/4 teaspoon Sriracha hot chili sauce, or 1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper

Boil vinegar, 2 tablespoons water, salt, and white pepper in a 1 1/2-quart heavy saucepan until reduced to about 2 tablespoons. Remove from heat and stir in remaining tablespoon water.

Whisk in yolks, then cook over very low heat, whisking constantly, until thickened (but not scrambled), about 1 minute. Whisk in butter 1 piece at a time, lifting pan occasionally to cool sauce and adding each piece before previous one is completely melted.
Remove from heat and whisk in lemon juice, chili sauce or cayenne, and a pinch each of salt and pepper if desired. Serve warm; may be refrigerated for a few days if necessary.

Note: some might find the sauce too tangy - reduce the lemon juice from two tablespoons to one; it still makes an acceptable lemony sauce while keeping offended tastebuds happy. Also, please note that the egg yolks in this sauce are not fully cooked. If you have concerns about salmonella, you should not make this sauce.

Hash browns

(makes four patties)

1 large baking potato
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon pepper
1/2 teaspoon onion powder
1 large egg, beaten

Scrub and coarsley grate potato (do not peel); sprinkle with salt and let sit 5 minutes. Drain off excess liquid, then mix with egg and remaining spices. Let sit another 5 minutes, while oil heats in pan. Use enough oil to liberally coat the bottom of a nonstick skillet. Spoon potato mixture into hot oil in 4 piles, and pack into patties with spatula or spoon. Fry until both sides are browned (darker than golden-brown) and center is tender.

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